Not surprisingly, Amman has changed a lot in twenty years. It's more than twice as big and it really feels completely different. It's not a sleepy little city anymore. The traffic was bad and the air quality terrible the days we were there. Much gunkier than a normal day in Riyadh (although they're similar today and I think they usually are). But it was still so nice to be there. We didn't have much time because we had things to do, but we did stop at the Citadel for a bit. And we saw Star Wars and ate at restaurants my son chose for his 17th birthday celebration. It was disconcerting to end up at the nicest mall in town (I didn't know when we were choosing) after driving by refugee camps to get there.
We also went to some places we remembered from 1997, like the Abu Darwish Mosque.